10.31.2005

Military Museums

I'm the only one around who's remotely interested in going to these places. That's why only I get to take the badass pictures and pose on ATGs.

Istanbul Aviation Museum
St. Petersburg Artillery Museum

There are two similar museums around Moscow. Stay tuned...

Morozhenoe

Yes, that's creme brulee ice cream in our hands.
Yes, that's snow on our cloths.
Yes, we did, and you didn't.
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10.24.2005

Sleeper Train

The cabin gently rocks, governed by forces not predestined by equations alone. Scant meaning drips out of the radio, and it's freshman year all over again. While the Mendicants party the night away, the walls futile in keeping their debauchery at bay, I longingly return to you, vapor rising with every breath and quickly whisked away by the wind. But this time you're not here, and I have no way home. A face appears in the doorway. "Why are you by yourself?" "Why aren't you drinking with us?" I politely decline with the promise of joining them soon, all the while fearful of betraying the truth: I want to be alone and left just so, deciphering Russian lyrics and thinking about you.

The room's dark, and the music sad yet steady. You coyly smile at me from far away, from long ago, and my heart thumps to your rhythm. Five is an eternity when it comes to ages, but not for us. With whom else would I row upon the rippling green and stroll along unruly rows of autumn maples? But now you're not with me, and I save the tears for myself.

10.19.2005

Whiners within the Comfort Zone and the Russian Friends without

In the internet cafe, the Stanford enclave in the Academy, I finally had it with the group. Iris has been complaining about the injustices she currently faces in pursuing an internship at the World Bank, and I support her wholeheartedly in her effort to scream at the heavens until someone gives her what she deserves (because she does). Not the others, necessarily. Obviously, Moscow isn't Istanbul. It's just...plain shittier, and there's nothing Sasha, Masha, or Pasha can do about it. But Stanford students have to vent about everything because that's what intelligentsia are entitled to do. I'm an intellectual; I'm not part of intelligentsia. Intelligentsia sees the world as a ball of clay in their hands, for their moulding and critique; I see myself as part of the whole. I blew up at the intelligentsia today, and I don't care if they listened. I said what I meant, and it's what I strive to do in life: If you don't like it, change it; if you can't, then adapt to it.
I posed a question: Did you expect to be happy here? I didn't come here for a vacation, I didn't come here to be happy. Happy is cuddling with Bubble in bed, not obsessing over the absent. Happy is drinking with people that'd die for me and I for them, not those that don't pay up. Happy is baseball in the open, not Tai-Chi in the Metro sardine can. Russia has never been a happy place. Happy is a bonus here, and I embrace it on every street corner where I find it.
I came to get out of my comfort zone. So far, I've been too conservative. Maybe I don't whine enough. When the online lectures didn't work, I dropped the class. When 3 people got the chance to teach English to Russian students and I didn't, I didn't bug Sasha. Iris is right, nothing gets done here unless you cry to everyone you know until someone listens and gives you what you want. What I want is a young Russian friend. But I wasn't about to cry and whine to get me one. (Can you feel a happy ending coming?)
In the sports complex of MGIMO, sitting against the wall facing four ping-pong tables, I felt like the new FOB kid from 13 years ago waiting courtside to be picked up for basketball. I was afraid to ask people to play, I was afraid of not understanding what they are saying, I was afraid to go find the office where I could rent a paddle and a ball for 80 rubles, I was afraid to suck in front of Russians. Step outside the comfort zone...here we go. A 16-year-old freshman Sasha asked me if I wanted to play with him. How can I refuse? We started playing. Playing turned into talking. Talking turned into exchanging phone numbers and promises that we'll do this again next Tuesday. Outside of the comfort zone isn't so bad, even if I can't understand half of what he said. As the sun set, I asked him if he was taking the Metro. He flashed a smile and shook his head, "No, in a car." O MGIMO, you Garvard of Russia.
An extra voice reverberated in the apartment when I got back an hour later. Zhenya, the mucisian-linguist and my host sister (get this) Zhenya's brother, came over again. We talked about music and languages, laughed over the poorly written Russian-Chinese phrase book. He taught me some guitar and I taught him some Chinese. There was no time for reading polisci papers in English, no time to think about useless thoughts and feelings in the comfort zone.

Ciao, Istanbul. Privet, Dunia

If my mind was still in Istanbul, the gray chill coupled with a renewed fear toward cops jerked me back to the gloom of Moscow. Autumn is here to stay this time, it seems. The plane ride was mostly uneventful, though getting to passport control took a little teamwork and American assholism. Everyone else lamented the end of our Turkish fling; I've had enough of Turkey to last me until a future PCS there. If never, I wouldn't think twice about it; the world's too big to linger. I felt my Russian--such as it is--leaving my brain, and I wanted it back.

Random...Just because she's so adorable, just because I can, and just because she took her first steps toward me, here's more of Dunia...

Istanbul: Para Agua y Soledad


Upon reading that there are no cars on the Princes' Islands (turned out to be only mostly true), I needed no further convincing. I got the whole group to come with minimal effort; a boat trip to exotic islands is crack-esque: it sells itself.
Following an outdoor lunch beneath a bridge spanning the Golden Horn, we embarked on the 1.5-hr journey to Buyukada Island (I'm too lazy to put the two German dots above the u's). It all reminded me of my boat trips back in Taiwan last month, and for an instant I missed my island, my family and friends. I love the water, the trail of white foam assuring me that we know our way back despite the vastness of the sea.
There's a serious cat infestation on this island, and I wished I could take them all home. They sunbathed on boats, strolled about the deserted streets, stood on the steps and porches of unoccupied and uninteresting European houses. Between dealing with a scamming horse carriageman and finding our way back to the port, there wasn't enough time to explore the parts I really wanted: the forests in the heart of the island. The expedition was well worth the trade, though. Along the way we hugged the beautiful northern coastline, and I had never seen so many jellyfish in their natural habitat. I was very pleased. I wouldn't have minded staying there for a day or two, despite the kid who made a crusty old Asian imitation upon my passing.
Truthfully, I had wanted to fly solo in the planning stage, but once we got going, I was glad to have the group to talk and laugh with on the boat and meander together aim-/cluelessly on an island that spoke not our tongue. In time, the conversation fell upon the issues with parents on the boat ride back, and the Greek sage was right: Everyone else is fighting a harder battle. Maybe not everyone, but that's enough for me.
Now let's burn some bridges. I loved the company over dinner followed by apple tea and expensive dessert, but our group seemed to have trouble paying bills in full. The concept of putting more than necessary and getting change back later remains out of reach for some, though I was happy to lay down the extra lira (or two, or three...) just so we could get the show on the road. Once, I understand. Twice, someone is just not pulling their weight out of their wallet. Not cool, and there would be no thrice.
I got my wish on the last day. Owing to the aforementioned estrogen imbalance, I alone thought about visiting the Aviation Museum. Fourty-five liras lighter, I haven't felt so free since my 4-hr penetration into the heart of Frankfurt. No one to follow, no one to lead, I read every posting and satisfied my gluttony for photos. It didn't matter that I must've looked completely pathetic and silly running back and forth between a bench and the static ATG display just to get the shot I wanted. It was all my time and mine alone. Once again, I had the pleasure of meeting foreign military personnel and talking with them about things that only we appreciate. You see, even when I'm alone, I'm not alone.

Istanbul: Doing the Tourist Thing

I could blog about our textbook visits to Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace, but you can both find better pictures online and read better descriptions in guidebooks. So why bother? That said, strolling in the shadows of a church/mosque with a birthdate in the 4th century while the entire city vibrates with the call to prayer is an inaffable experience that I urge you to partake. The otherworldliness never wore thin. I wish I had just sat there and taken it all in for hours. A city like Istanbul deserves more than windowshopping tourism.
In more interesting news, there was a revolt named Nika...Foreshadow?
Everywhere we went, I saw arrows that were pointing to Girls, but not really. At any rate, being the only straight male creature in our group, I really could deal with less estrogen. To that end, Istanbul was the perfect city; hardly any local women could be seen on the streets during the day. Male chauvinism was definitely the modus op. I didn't feel too kindly toward them, not with their persistent and sleazy advances toward the girls and racial disrespect toward me. I can't tell the difference between a Turk and a Kurd to save my life, but at least I know better than to go around saying "Merhaba" or "Shalom" to every Middle Eastern I see. Still, they seem like a rather warm and happy people, and that's a welcomed relief from Moscovites. Despite everything, I absolutely loved the hotel staff, who were geniunely warm and helpful and in all other ways wonderful.